Monday, September 2, 2013

The Pot Garden


The gardening visiting season is almost over for another year. 


Opening the garden is a wonderful experience because no one ever says that “your garden is awful”, and it is so interesting to see the garden through the eyes of visitors.  We give garden tourists a brief introduction to Smugcreek and then explain that here we have created four gardens. 


A few weeks ago one of our guests suggested that we actually have five gardens.  It was suggested that our deck has so many pots and troughs on it that is could easily be called The Deck Garden.


So, that is what it has become.   Our Deck Garden consists of eighty-nine potted hosta in large and small pots, plus nine planted bowls and troughs.  
These containers include a bowl planted with the original Blue Mouse Ears sport collection and two large stone troughs that came all the way from the island of Bali in Indonesia (long story!)   In addition, there are several dozen really small pots containing miniature hostas that Kathy has arranged on an ornamental iron stand.   


We try to arrange the larger potted hostas for effect.  Some pots are placed on tall plant stands, lower pots are placed around them and even smaller pots and trays are arranged around them.  This arrangement is intended to showcase the beauty of the foliage whilst hiding the pots as much as possible. On a good day it can look really impressive.

 As people look around the deck garden, the most often asked question is “What do you do with all those pots in winter?”  The stock reply is this:

Hostas are perfectly hardy in our climate but the pot might not be.  Hostas need a cold winter in order to rest and recharge their batteries for the next season.  They go dormant and disappear underground.  This makes the storage of potted hostas quite easy.


Although it may look like many of our bigger hostas are planted in ceramic or terracotta pots, they are not.  They are usually in a plastic pot that is simply dropped into a larger fancy pot so the plastic cannot be seen.   As soon as the hosta has gone dormant,  these plastic pots are removed and placed in a sheltered spot in the woods – pushed closely together to keep each other company, and left until spring.   The outer ceramic pot, that may or may not be frost proof, is stored in a cold garage. 

All the ceramic pots and trays that have hostas actually planted directly into them are also stored in the garage on temporary shelves.  The plants stay cold but the pots do not get frosted.  It is the constant freezing and thawing during the winter months that causes some pots to break.   There are tiny cracks on the surface of these pots.  Damp collects in them and then freezes.  Frozen water expands slightly and makes the crack larger.   On a slightly warmer day the ice thaws but the crack it has left is now larger.   Next time it freezes there is more water in the crack that expands to make the crack larger still.   Multiple freezing and thawing throughout the winter and the cracks become big enough to break the pot into pieces. So, although the garage is very cold, it is not damp, there is no moisture to freeze and the posts do not crack.

Those small hostas displayed in very small pots and trays receive special attention.   Our friend John Walczak gave us a wonderful idea for the storage of these little gems.  Get a large plastic tote.  Once the hostas have gone dormant, line the bottom of your tote with small pots, add a layer of cardboard, then another layer of pots and then more cardboard and more pots until the tote is full.  Once the lid in on they are cold and protected from the frost and the vermin and they have a self-contained environment.


Elsewhere we have a large number of hostas in smaller plastic pots (There is a philosophy around here that if we manage to plant by fall all the plants we obtained during the summer, we didn’t buy enough) that are over-wintered in our hosta ‘corrals’. (The Book of Little Hostas, page 47).  For these hostas, we have still another scenario;  four wooden planks are used to make a rectangle.   The small plastic pots are placed within this rectangle as close together as possible.  Cedar wood mulch is used to fill the gaps between them, mouse bait added, and then the whole lot covered with a few inches of mulch and left for the snow to cover and protect.  Cedar mulch is used because it has been said that the smell deters mice and voles.   Mouse bait is added just in case the cedar mulch information is wrong.

When spring comes and the days begin to get longer and warmer we just have to remember to gently water the plants in the garage and gradually remove the mulch from the pots outside.


But often, in the flurry of activity in the fall, a pot is forgotten somewhere in the garden – or two or more.  We have come to learn that more often than not, the hosta survives just fine.

Sunday, February 24, 2013

Oh Deer! Deer Fencing at Smug Creek


Deer seem to have ‘discovered’ our gardens last fall and this winter.  It is very annoying and whilst they cannot do much damage at this time of year we do not want them to make a habit of visiting.


When we first move here and contemplated gardens I suggested that the garden area should be ringed with deer defenses.  Kathy pointed out that if we fenced the deer out we were fencing ourselves in.  We wanted to be able to explore and enjoy the rest of our property and I agreed.  We have never totally surrounded ourselves with deer fencing.


The first thing we did was to put the eight-foot high plastic mesh fence around an area behind the garage where we intended storing the plants and shrubs waiting to go into the as yet uncultivated gardens.  We stapled and sometimes tied the netting to the trunks of available trees.   We then used the same type of fencing along the lot line fairly close to the back of the house.  Deer have never come through or over these fences all the time they have been installed.   They simply walk around them.  But, they were very nervous that they are walking into a trap and did so very infrequently.


The problems with this plastic netting are many.  Branches fall on it and drag it down, snow collects on it and breaks it and the cold makes it brittle. It can be fairly easily fixed but the real problem for us is that it is so expensive and we could not afford to use it everywhere we wanted a fence.


Once we had dug and planted the two top terraces we decided that we needed to keep the deer out.   In a heavily wooded area it is fairly easy to make an effective deer fence by wrapping fishing line around the tree trunks and running it from tree to tree.


The method that worked for me is to first mark the route of the fence.  I tied colored tape around the trees that I want to form the ‘fence posts’.  The trees have to be big and strong enough not to bend in the wind, but the trunks have to be thin enough to enable your arms to go around them in a bear hug.  They also need to be free of branches from the ground to about eight feet high.



If there is a gap of more than about 15 feet between trees you will need to put a fence post of some type in the middle of the gap.  Tie the fishing line around a tree trunk.  Walk to the next tree, wrap it around the trunk and walk to the next tree.  After a while turn around and walk back with the line at a different height. 


My advice is not to go more than three or four trees away before changing the height of the line up or down and going back towards the first tree, wrapping the line around each tree as you go.  By zigzagging back and forth at irregular heights you will eventually achieve four or five lines of fishing line between each pair of trees the lowest as near to the ground as you can get and the highest as high as you can reach and at least 7 feet.  Over the years I have added more and more line to this defense and in places there are as many as twenty strands between trees but it is still almost impossible to see.


I don’t think deer have ever jumped over this fence but they have scrambled under it and across it when a fallen branch has damaged it.


The sight of deer in the garden this winter led us to agree that we needed more deer fencing and I decided to build a fence similar to one that I had first seen in Elaine Rappley’s Michigan garden several years ago.   The fence is made from fallen branches and is cleverly designed to keep deer out without looking too siege-like.   It is based on the principle that, unlike horses that at speed jump low and long, deer jump higher but almost vertically.  They are not able to long jump great distances.


The fence consists of tripods made from three similar lengths of fallen branch tied together at the apex and with the legs stretched apart far enough to make it stable.  The tripods are placed between six and ten feet apart and other branches tied to the uprights at ankle and waist height are used to link them. I tied the horizontal timbers to the uprights with a variety of Boy Scout lashings, plastic cable ties and long screws.  A final substantial branch connects the apex of each tripod to the apex of the next.


The first fence of this type I saw was about four feet high and three feet deep but I decided that the deer in Michigan are wimps and that my fence would be much bigger.  After all you get an awful lot of fallen timber in 13 acres of wood.  I also had plenty of fallen wood to back fill the fence both vertically and horizontally.  I ended up with a fence that was between five and seven feet high and three and for feet wide at the base.  It looks a little stark in the winter but as soon as the trees and undergrowth leaf out in the spring it will not be so noticeable.


But does it stop the deer?  Nope.  They walk straight through it.   Well they did.  Various snowfalls this winter have allowed me to find the spots where they are able to penetrate and block them with more and more bits of fallen branch.  My most recent look around has revealed very little encroachment into the protected area of our woods.



Hopefully the combination of the three types of deer fencing whilst not keeping the area enclosed totally free from deer will deter them from making a habit of visiting us and eating our precious plants.